January 19, 2016

Blue Cruise 2015

January 19, 2016

The main perk of working in Turkey's tourism industry is, of course, partaking in the same travel itineraries that we plan for others. What's more, in our efforts to perfect our own annual Blue Cruise vacation, we gain valuable experience to incorporate into our suggestions and guidance for clients. Win-win!

This year was one of our best trips yet, thanks to a hilarious group of friends and a brilliant route. But there were a couple of snags, as can be expected when you're trying to assemble a group of people coming from various parts of the world. No matter - these are the experiences we learned from, and will avoid next time around!

Without further ado, I give you

THE BLUE CRUISE 2015 TRAVEL LOG

or "The Real World Bozburun '15"

Day 1: Marmaris

We flew into Dalaman airport the first morning, where we had a transfer van waiting to bring us to the port of Marmaris. Well, most of us did. With guests flying in from California, the UK, Germany, Italy, and Istanbul, it's hardly surprising that there were a few unavoidable delays along the way. Because of a flight mix-up that morning, we got off to a late start on the boat, but it easily could have been a lot worse. Next time around, we'll have our friends meet the night before departure in the port city, to allow more of a buffer zone for possible delays.

What to do while you wait in port? These guys primped.

There was a silver lining to having a few hours to kill before we embarked - we were in Marmaris! The boat was docked by Marmaris' old city, which is a charming hillside labyrinth of narrow streets draped in bougainvillea. Some of our group went off in search of peṣtemals - thin Turkish hamam towels. We advise all our friends to bring a couple of these versatile towels to the boat, as they pack easily and ensure you'll always have a dry towel on hand. The rest of us went to pick up some floaty beds and noodles (also the floaty kind, not pasta.) Sometimes the boat already has noodles, but as the sea water destroys them very quickly and they cost about 2 lira per noodle, we like to stock up anyway.

By the early afternoon we had assembled our entire group of 12 on the boat and were more than ready to get the show on the road. There was one last thing to do, however, and that was to go through customs. The route we planned this year took us from Marmaris and the coast of Turkey on the first night straight to Rhodes the following morning, so we needed to officially exit Turkey before we left the port. This is not generally a long or arduous process, but if you do plan a Blue Cruise that takes you between Turkey and the Greek islands, be prepared to spend some time and money paying for the right to cross borders. It is definitely worth it. But by this point on our first day, having already been delayed, we were itching to swim!

Finally, mid-afternoon, customs completed, we were on our way. It was glorious.

We stopped for the night in Kadırga Koyu, which is a beautiful cove, but still quite close to Marmaris. There were already several boats moored there (we were a bit late to the party), but it was the first and last cove we anchored in that was even remotely "crowded." But nothing mattered by that point. We swam, we had wine, there was fish on the grill.

I will take this moment to tell you generally about the food we ate on board, because I can't possibly remember the precise menus for each meal, nor would that be interesting to read. The first night was pretty special though, because we had mountains of seafood. They served us octopus salad, fried calamari, shrimps sautéed in butter, and whole grilled sea breams. Along side all that came various salads and vegetable dishes. We had a seafood feast one other night during the trip, but they also served us mouthwatering grilled chicken, pasta with freshly made tomato and olive sauce, cauliflower salad with yogurt, mücver (zucchini fritters), eggplant and potato salad with tomato sauce, haydari (strained yogurt with fresh herbs) and lots more. I wish I had pictures of our meals for this blog, but the honest truth is that we demolished all of it as soon as the plate hit the table. So you'll just have to imagine it: it was simple, healthy, gorgeous Mediterranean fare. Breakfast was always a traditional Turkish spread: tomatoes and cucumbers, olives, feta and kaṣar cheeses, honey, jams, nutella, fresh fruit, some kind of egg dish or french toast, sometimes sucuk (Turkish sausage), tea and coffee.

After feasting like kings some of us collapsed from travel exhaustion and others went night swimming. It had been a long day but overall, a successful one.

Day 2: Rhodes

The sun was rising as we left the Turkish coast

The Aegean is the calmest in the early morning hours, so we were off to Rhodes at dawn. Three or so hours later we arrived at port and were served breakfast while the handler came to take our passports to the border office. By late morning we had completed the customs process and received our guest cards that would allow us to enter and exit the port freely.

The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes

Rhodes Old Town is a medieval walled city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We split into smaller groups and set off to get lost in the back streets, to shop, sightsee, and idle in the cafes. In the mid-afternoon we reconvened on the boat for lunch, and then some of us headed out for a swim while others napped or read. The public beach right next to the port in Rhodes has startlingly clean, clear water, so we didn't have to go far to swim, but some of our group took a walk to another beach with beds and umbrellas.

After swimming and showering, we headed back into the medieval city for dinner. We had a reservation at Marco Polo Restaurant, set in the garden of the boutique hotel Marco Polo Mansion. It was an incredible meal in an even more incredible setting, and ended up costing far less than we had anticipated for a group of 12. We would not hesitate to recommend it (or to go back!)

After dinner we wandered a bit, and, by happy chance, came across a live music performance in an open air bar. I don't know how to describe it any other way than this: SO. MUCH. FUN. When the band finished we were legitimately bummed.

We headed back to the boat to sleep, but the port was unfortunately quite loud, so many of us slept below deck. Of course it's not unusual to sleep in the cabins, but we often choose to sleep outside under the stars, so nights spent in port can be less picturesque.

Day 3: Symi's Coves

Symi already had a spot at the top of our list of favorite Greek islands, but after this trip it might have reached the pinnacle. We came from a different direction than we had in years past, and so explored a side of the island we hadn't yet seen - and it was seriously breathtaking. Our first stop was Nanou Bay, a sliver of beach surrounded by steep hills on either side. It was very windy when we first arrived, but we were able to moor behind a rock wall that protected us, and it was PARADISE. We were surrounded by the type of scenery that epitomizes the Blue Cruise: jagged coastline, pristine water glittering under the sun, and the feeling that you're a million miles from nowhere. It was the first full day we spent in typical Blue Cruise fashion - swimming, reading, eating, drinking, laughing.

The water was chilly for a only a moment. Some off us set off with noodles and snorkel gear to scout locations for cliff jumping, and a few of us jumped. Later on, a group left on a long swim to find a hidden beach described to us by the captain. After some genuine exercise, we were ready for lunch. In the afternoon we had a short cruise to the next spot, Agios Giorgios, which (can it be possible?) was even more striking than the last. Towering cliffs flanked a beach populated only by goats and a few intruding campers. A tiny church was the only building. And so we spent the remainder of the day swimming and dining with possibly the most spectacular backdrop of the entire trip.

Day 4: Symi's Port

In the morning we cruised out of Agios Giorgios and headed to a spot closer to the main port of Symi. Once again the water was exquisite so we spent a good part of the day jumping into it, over and over. The other part we spent floating in it. Then we climbed some craggy rocks and jumped some more.

After lunch we headed into Symi's port, which is just downright enchanting. I'm not even going to bother trying to describe it, just - here:

We had to wait a bit for the guy to come gather our passports and fix up our customs paperwork, but then we were off to explore the town. It's a small place, but there's another charming boutique, gallery or cafe on every corner. After some delicious, but small-island-priced ($$) cocktails by the marina, we went back to our boat for another excellent dinner. But still we weren't finished. Symi is not like Rhodes - at the end of the gangplank there's no port security or city walls between you and the town, you're already there. So we walked a few minutes to a square overflowing with people and music, and we danced..

Day 5: The Bozburun Peninsula

Sleeping in Symi's port was not loud like Rhodes, or maybe we were worn out from dancing... but we slept well! At dawn we headed back to the Turkish coast. For breakfast we stopped at Tavṣan Bükü, with a direct view back to Symi on the horizon and the sea shimmering in infinite shades of blue. After spending the morning reviving ourselves in the water, we cruised into Bozburun's port to officially enter Turkey through the border office. While they were handling our paperwork, we wandered around town, unwittingly walked through a film set, and did some shopping.

Shallow waters made for a slow and scenic cruise into Bozburun

Back on the boat we set off for Çöpçalık Koyu, a magical place heretofore unknown to us. This cove had everything: dazzling water, total privacy, sandy shallows that allowed for lounging in the water with glasses of wine, little islands to climb over, miniature caves to explore, goats that appreciated sunsets, craggy cliffs to jump off from, and ancient pottery scraps to collect, or lick, if that's your bag. We held it to a vote and decided, on our own authority, that it was the best cove ever.

There was another seafood feast, a beautiful sunset, and it was good.

Day 6: We Don't Want to Leave

The water in Çöpçalık Koyu was so clear in the morning it looked about 6 inches deep. It was our last day, and the crew offered us the option to stay or to leave Çöpçalık and explore other coves. No, we said unequivocally, we want to live in this cove for the rest of our lives.

In the afternoon, those who were not napping off lunchtime wine took the dinghy out for a cliff jumping excursion. But mostly the day was spent relishing every moment we had left in this, the cove to end all coves.

We had a lot of cliff jumping enthusiasts this trip, did you notice?

The last evening was the most beautiful. There was another delicious meal and a captivating sunset, yes, but it was special also because we knew we had reached the end. Our group, which started as a motley assortment of near-strangers, were now friends celebrating a successful joint adventure, the shared memories that will last a lifetime, and making plans to meet again.

Best vantage point to watch the sunset? Sitting on your noodle chair in the sea, with your camera in one hand and a tumbler of whiskey in the other.

For those friends of ours who want to join us next year, we are thinking of doing a similar route, but perhaps including another small island instead of Rhodes. Having been to Rhodes multiple times, we prefer to stay in quieter ports (or even better, silent coves) on our personal cruises. So far, though, this was the best route we've done yet!

If you're interested in organizing your own Blue Cruise, don't hesitate to contact us. This trip cost €770 per person for 6 nights, all meals, unlimited drinks, and all port and customs fees.

For good measure: The glassy water of Çöpçalık Koyu in the morning

January 19, 2016

10 Reasons a Blue Cruise is the Best Vacation Ever

January 19, 2016

There are a lot of good vacations to be had. Beach resorts are good. Cities rich with history and culture, distinct architecture and culinary talent: great stuff. Adventure travel, seeking out the remote natural wonders of the world—also good!

But while I don't plan to stop traveling as far and as often as possible, there's one vacation that trumps the rest: the Blue Cruise. The Blue Cruise, or Blue Voyage, is the tradition of exploring the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts of Turkey and Greece in a crewed wooden gulet.

"Sure, boats, cool," you're thinking.

No. Listen to me.

It involves so many elements of a perfect vacation that it makes other holidays look one-dimensional.

Now, since we read nothing on the Internet if it's not in the form of a list, and without the structure of a list I may just end up shouting incoherently about this, my most beloved holiday on Earth, without further ado:

10 Reasons a Blue Cruise is the BEST VACATION EVER

1. No obligations.

I mean this in a very literal sense, like you aren't even obligated to remember to eat. Once you board the boat, you can rest assured that everything will be taken care of until you disembark. Unlike, say, a city trip, where you might have to organize your time in order to get to the sights, find the best restaurants, or decode the public transportation system, you can experience all the pleasures of a Blue Cruise without lifting a finger in effort. You'll know when breakfast is ready; the crew will ring a bell. Each day will just unfold around you like the ever-changing landscape. This is especially gratifying because a Blue Cruise is typically a group vacation, and coordinating the needs and wishes of everyone on a group trip can take all the pleasure out of the trip itself. So grab your book, claim a sunbed, and you'll be on your way to the next cove.

Dibs on the sofa, and bring me some wine please

2. It's remarkably affordable.

This is the part, no matter how many times I explain it to my friends, that still surprises them when it comes time to break down the cost.

So let's break it down again. Let's say, for example, you choose a standard gulet with 5 cabins that costs 720 euros a night, and you round up 9 of your friends. For the 10 of you splitting the boat, it will cost 72 euros each. Meals are usually priced at about 30 euros per person per day, so that brings it to 102 euros per day, all meals included.

I'm using real prices in my break down, from this boat. And mid-season prices, not even the lowest.

Now, consider if you came over to the south of Turkey or Greece for the sun and the sea, but booked a hotel by the beach. You might find a decent hotel for 100 euros (likely you'll pay more), but once you add restaurants, activities and incidentals to the mix, it will end up costing you more than a private boat.

Another shot of the example boat from the cost break down. Any takers?

Of course, you don't have to take 10 friends to make it affordable. There are boats that sleep 4 guests that can be chartered for as low as 420 euros a night.

Naturally, if you are not totally constrained by budget, there are some magnificent boats to be had! But I find the affordability of the Blue Cruise a very salient detail, because it is all too often that people mistake my Instagram snaps of the sparkling Aegean as indicative of some kind of yachting lifestyle. Nope. Plan ahead and it is not out of reach. And whether you're on a standard, superior, or a deluxe boat, the other pleasures of the Blue Cruise remain unchanged.

3. The Turquoise Coast.

It's not for nothing that the Aegean and Mediterranean regions have played such a central role in the history of Western civilization—this place is awe-inspiring. The stretch of coastline you'll meander on a Blue Cruise is nothing short of spectacular. What's more, you'll be in remote and uninhabited corners of the coast that are otherwise unreachable, whether by land transport or commercial cruise ship. One secluded, deserted cove at a time, you'll wend your way past steep pine forests, rocky islets jutting from the waves, and sheer cliffs dropping into the sea.

And the sea! There's nothing like plunging into the Aegean sea right after waking up in the morning. In each cove the water is a little different—sometimes a perfect turquoise, sometimes jade, sometimes clear to a sandy bottom, sometimes dark from the depth—but always pristine. Words and even pictures don't really do it justice, so I won't go on, but I will say this: it's one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the world, and the view changes constantly on the boat. Needless to say, it never gets old.

4. History and culture!

First of all, the Blue Cruise is a Turkish tradition, established by a group of artists and intellectuals in the mid-20th century. It was not invented by the tourism industry to draw foreigners to the region. So by taking a Blue Cruise you're already getting a taste of Turkish/Aegean culture, in a far more authentic way than if you rolled through on a giant cruise ship.

But it doesn't end there. From the fresh local ingredients used in your meals, to the hospitality of the crew, to the small fishing villages you'll visit along the way, you will experience the essence of Aegean culture.

View of the bay from the ruins of Loryma, now known as Bozukkale, "Broken Castle"

And seriously, you can't take two steps without tripping over an ancient city. Many civilizations have risen and fallen throughout Anatolia and Greece, and all have left remnants scattered throughout the region. Some sites, like Ephesus, attract visitors from around the world, but the ruins you will come across on a Blue Cruise are often desolate, unattended. You can freely climb the walls of the ancient city of Loryma to gaze at Rhodes in the distance, or hike to the deserted ruins of the city of Lydae. No matter which route you choose on Blue Cruise, you will discover some reminder of past civilizations, while enjoying the culture of the present one.

The amphitheater of Kaunos, at Dalyan. With some goats.

5. Solid, quality time spent with people you love.

We're sitting on noodles. The floaty bed is basically a table for drinks.

For me, a Blue Cruise presents the perfect opportunity to round up friends and family whom I never see enough of and trap them on a boat with me for a week. Yes, sometimes travel is about getting away from everyone and everything. But in this age when families and friendships often span continents, travel can also be about reconnecting. I think it's fair to say that most of us have people in our lives we wish we saw more often, and not just on the Facebook feed. And this is an infinitely better option than crashing on each other's couches—no one has to host, no one has to play guest. And you'll create more than enough memories to last you to the next reunion. Which brings us to the next point...

6. Anyone and everyone will enjoy a Blue Cruise.

As a youngish person with no kids, my travel plans don't usually involve googling "family-friendly." But here's the thing: there is genuinely no age at which a Blue Cruise isn't awesome. (Unless you're like 200, I don't know, or a week old. I can't speak for them.)

Here are some examples of groups for which a Blue Cruise would be a great, nay, perfect option:

An extended family with young kids, all the cousins and aunts and uncles.
A squad of 22-year-old recent college grads, pumped to celebrate graduation by chugging a beer on a noodle.
Our regular crew: a mixed bag of friends and siblings in their 20s and 30s.
A family with grown or almost-grown kids, enjoying what time remains before the nest empties.
Retirees.

In fact, many of the people you'll see on neighboring boats during a Blue Cruise will be retirees or retirement-age. Why? Because they know what's good. They don't mess around.

7. The FOOD.

When eating on a Blue Cruise you may find yourself wondering, "How is this food so freaking good?"

"It came out of that tiny kitchen! It's not complicated, or even something I haven't had before! What is this sorcery?"

Grilling fish on the boat. In the moonlight.

I've thought about this over the years and I think it's a combination of things. First and foremost, fresh, local ingredients. It's become a cliche in recent years, like every grocery store in Brooklyn only sells fresh local produce grown out back in the alley. But now you're on a boat in the Aegean. "Fresh and local" is how they live.

Another thing: the crew is also eating the food they're serving you. They eat amazing Aegean cuisine (which involves abundant greens, vegetables, yogurt, fruit, and fish, alongside the other food groups) everyday in their regular lives. They don't want to eat mediocre food at work, so they won't be serving it to you.

A Turkish meze tray. *This was in a restaurant, not on a boat. Still, it was delicious.

Also, nothing works up an appetite like swimming and climbing around on rocks and soaking up the sun all day. By the time the bell rings for lunch, you will want to eat everything. This is not to say that there's not enough food or it's not served often enough! Every meal is absolutely satisfying. It's just something about being outside on the sea all day—everything tastes better.

Which brings me to the second part of Reason No. 7. This combination of delicious Aegean food, fresh air, and sea water is exceptionally invigorating. After every Blue Cruise I've taken, I've felt healthier than when I began. Believe me, I wasn't swimming to shore to run on the beach; it was through no effort on my part. Even our first Blue Cruise, when the average age skewed younger, and we drank more than is advisable, no hangover survived past the initial morning dive into the sea.

8. A complete escape from reality.

Nothing to watch tonight but the moon rising.

Earlier I mentioned that travel can (or should) sometimes be about reconnecting. For me, the perfect vacation involves both connecting and disconnecting. Reconnecting with family, or connecting with new friends, is an essential part of the travel experience. In the same vein, it often takes disconnecting—from social media, television, the 24 hour news cycle—to genuinely connect with those around us. The Blue Cruise makes this effortless. You'll find yourself in places that seem so removed from civilization, it's easy to let go of all the noise. It's easy to let your phone battery die for two days without realizing it. Of course, you can charter a boat that has WiFi and flat screens in every cabin, but I've never missed those things during a cruise. And I've enjoyed the times when we found ourselves outside the range of cell service, with nothing left to do but be together at the edge of the world.

9. Mediterranean hospitality.

I can't count the times I was completely blown away by the hospitality of the people I've met in Turkey. I say "Mediterranean" hospitality because I think it's the same in many other parts of the region, but my experience has mainly been focused in Turkey and the Aegean region in particular.

These people. Are so, so nice. They are so generous in sharing their culture, their customs, and SO MUCH of their food. (I have also been overfed too many times to count.)

On a Blue Cruise you will be taken care of so very, very well by your crew. They'll make you feel totally at home. We had such a great experience with our crew that we've come back to the same boat every year since, and I believe that this is quite common.

I'm not promising that everyone you meet on your travels throughout the entire Mediterranean region will be an actual angel, but chances are they will be warm and welcoming, and happy to have you.

10. The places you'll pass through.

Before you can embark on your Blue Cruise, you'll have to get to the boat. Conveniently, the boats are moored in gorgeous ports along the Turquoise Coast. You'll have to come through places like Bodrum, Fethiye, Marmaris, Gocek, or Bozburun on both the front and back ends of the cruise, and if you have to overnight there for one reason or another, it's just an added bonus.

And let's not forget the other glittering cities and sights along the route! Rhodes medieval city is certainly something to behold, as is the utterly charming port of Symi. Oludeniz and Dalyan are two of many stops along the Turkish coast well worth a detour.

On a Blue Cruise you're not stuck next to the same hotel pool for a week—you're traveling. You can start in one port and end in another, even stop on an island in between. And the next time around, choose a different route, and explore even further.

I want this door in Rhodes. Top of my door wish list.

Now, if you are a person who loves traveling and also has any sense, you're mentally checking your calendar for vacation days and compiling a list of your best travel buddies. I've made it easy for you—just forward them this list. Then you can swing on over to our fleet and check out some boats. The only thing that might be stressful about a Blue Cruise is organizing the details, but for that part, we've got you covered.

Discover The Blue Voyage.